Introduction:
Once you have decided to get your antique furniture restored and it is your first time, choosing a restorer can be a very daunting task. Most people have many different reasons for seeking out a restorer such as it has been damaged in a move, it has just deteriorated over time or it was a loved family piece that requires a little TLC. What ever your reason their a few questions you should ask your restorer before committing to the restoration.
Like most things, if you want the job done right, you need to shop around and talk to as many professionals as possible to ensure that you have built up your own knowledge on antique restoration so you can then make the right choice in restorers.
The finish/Polish
Before I have this piece restored is the polish on my antique currently in original condition?
Can the polish be revived or does it have to be stripped and refinished?
Is the polishing/finishing technique you will be using on my antique furniture keeping true to how it would have originally been polished?
(These are very important questions as in many instances the value of an antique is in its original finish.)
Lacquer or French polish?
Do you believe that antiques should be French polished or spray Lacquered?
This is an important question as most antique furniture (as a guide aprox c. 1910 and earlier) was originally french polished. Period items (as a guide aprox c.1920-today) are acceptable to have a lacquered finish as that was generally the original finishing product used.
Today many restorers will convince their clients that a lacquer finish is accepted in any circumstance, the reason behind this is that it is quick and cheap and requires little effort from the restorer to achieve a look that resembles a french finish.
A lacquer finish, in most instances, will need to be replaced within 10yrs. To my professional knowledge their is no reviver or maintainable product ,such as furniture oil and wax, on the market that actually works with a lacquered Finnish. This is due to the chemical properties of the lacquer itself.
A French finish, if maintained, should last a lifetime. It is a durable hardwearing all natural finish that is maintainable with many different natural oils and waxes that are currently on the market. (be sure to choose a product that has no chemicals, no silicon and is not an aerosol. If you have any questions about a product that you may be currently using and if it is suitable please email us for some advice.)
Repair or Replace:
When it comes to the question of repair or replace it is a general rule that you should try and keep as much of the antique as original as possible. Replace is always a very last option.
If your repairer automatically tells you to replace it can sometimes be that he or she may not be skilled enough to do the repair properly and to cover this they tell you to replace. If this happens get another professional opinions before deciding to replace.
Veneer and Inlay Repairs:
It is crucial that you ask your restorer if they will be using bog (or a similar substance) to repair the damage to the veneer and/or inlay. This is a highly unacceptable practice that many restorers will use without the clients knowledge. This generally comes down to cost cutting or a lack of skill on the restorers behalf. When performing a veneer repair, veneer should be used, likewise with inlay repairs.
Stripping:
Their are, most commonly, three methods of stripping used today to remove a finish.
-Caustic dipping
-Heat Gun
-Hand stripping (using paint stripper)
It is important to ask your restorer which method he or she uses.
Caustic dipping involves dipping your antique into a bath of a caustic solution until the finish has been dissolved and then it is dipped into a vinegar (or similar) solution to try and neutralize the caustic solution. The end result leaves the timber on the furniture looking and feeling like fur, the timber is then heavily sanded back till it becomes smooth again. The problem with this method of stripping is its highly aggressive nature of caustic and due to timber being of a very porous nature it soaks up the caustic solution and quite often, even after neutralization, stays active in the timber and leaches back out over time destroying the polish that has been newly applied.
This method of stripping is employed by restorers because it is very quick and cost effective with little concern for the damaging effects it can have to the timber of an antique piece of furniture.
Heat Gun , in a sense, involves burning off a finish. This method can not be used on veneer or inlay work as it melts the glue that holds the veneer and inlay down and it will all lift off. It also pays to remember that timber is reactive to heat and cold and if a lot of heat is applied to timber it will shrink leaving evidence of joins etc.
Hand Stripping is much more costly and labour intensive then the above methods but would have to be the most gentle to the timber. Paint stripper is applied to the area of polish/paint/finish that you want removed, it is stripped away and then it is diluted with warm soapy water and then cleaned with fresh water. It leaves the timber smooth and clean with no need for harsh sanding. Hand stripping is the only method of finish removal that I would recommend for antiques.
Summary:
At the end of the day their are real qualified professional restorers out there that do the right thing but there are also those that don't. Going to a restorer with a little knowledge behind you will help you to make the right decisions.
